JORDAN BIKE TRAIL: DISCOVERING JORDAN ON A GRAVEL BIKE

From north to south, across 700 kilometers on a gravel bike. This is the story of a journey through a country striving to maintain its secular identity with the growing tensions among its neighbors. We rode the entire trail, relishing every single meter, and returned home with the unforgettable beauty of Jordan’s sunsets imprinted in our minds.

For far too many days, news broadcasts worldwide have shown images of the Middle East, torn apart by hatred and senseless wars. So, when I told my friends I was going to Jordan, more than a few asked, “Aren’t you afraid?” It’s true—our view of the world is often shaped by headlines alone, as it’s human nature, especially in today’s digital age, to rely on partial and surface-level information.

Yet I set off for Jordan, not to prove that King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein’s country is safe, free from conflict, but because I had long heard about a trail that absolutely needed to be explored: the Jordan Bike Trail. To truly grasp the scale of what we’re talking about, picture a map of Jordan and trace a line along its western border with Israel, spanning over 700 kilometers from the northern tip to the southern edge of the country. As your imaginary pencil moves, it will pass through landscapes that transform with the changing latitudes, taking you over 20,000 meters of elevation gain in just a little over a week.

Familiar mountains

The Jordan Bike Trail is split into three main regions. The northern section, which we’ll tackle in three stages, is green, lush, and at times even verdant, with hills brimming with fruit and vegetables. Be sure to taste the olives and olive oil from these “pre-Alpine” lands, where temperatures can drop sharply (Jordanians here are well-acquainted with snow), but come early or late summer, the hot, dry Khamsin wind, laden with sand, sweeps through.

We find ourselves in the Fertile Crescent, a region of significant agricultural value, where farming is done with both aging tractors and traditional methods—it's not uncommon to spot an old plow pulled by a horse over fertile, vibrant soil. Olive groves, vast orange orchards, lemon trees, and even semi-wild date palms stretch across the land. Sheep and goats, with their loyal guard dogs, complete the rural tapestry of this Arab region.

We skirt Amman, the rich and opulent capital of the Kingdom of Jordan, while to the east of our path, we catch glimpses of the oak groves in Ajloun Forest Reserve, one of the country’s five protected areas. Yet, it’s in the country's ancient history that its true roots lie. Roman ruins, many of them well-preserved—such as Umm Qais and Pella, which once marked the frontier of the Roman Empire—tell the tale of a nation as old as two millennia, much like our own.

Despite being a predominantly Muslim country, Jordan stands out as one of the most moderate and tolerant in the Islamic world. We were surprised by an unexpected discovery: Carakale Brewery, located on the outskirts of Fuhais. This brewery symbolizes the open-mindedness of Jordanians, who embrace aspects of a Western lifestyle while remaining true to their roots. Appropriately, the caracal—a desert wildcat known for its ability to leap four meters to catch its prey—gives its name to a range of beers that were an extraordinary surprise in these latitudes.

Hills and plateaus

As we continue south along the Jordan Valley (though we never quite reach the river), we enter the second section of the Jordan Bike Trail. Here, a more technical approach to gravel riding is required to navigate the wadis—canyons that line the east of the Dead Sea. Rainfall shapes this often fragile, clay-rich terrain, uncovering sharp rocks and deep ruts where wheels can easily sink, making wide tires (at least 40mm) invaluable.

Our attention shifts between the rough terrain and the awe-inspiring lunar landscape surrounding us. The powerful energy of the Dana mountains is only interrupted by the dramatic contours of Wadi Mujib, painting a postcard-perfect scene with views stretching all the way to Israel. Along the way, medieval castles like the fortress of Karak—site of historic battles that elevated the legend of Ṣalāḥ al-Dīn, better known as the formidable Saladin, who ended the Crusader Kingdom in the Holy Land—dot the landscape.

The Jordan Bike Trail is designed with traveler safety in mind, even for those on foot (as the route originated as a three-week trek), connecting villages that offer various hospitality options, from luxury hotels to charming, comfortable B&Bs. Don’t be surprised if, as you pass through small towns and villages, you’re greeted with a spontaneous "Welcome to Jordan!" This simple phrase reflects the warm spirit of Bedouin hospitality, a people of the desert who understand the true value of welcoming strangers. It’s through this hospitality that we’ll be invited into Jordanian homes, where we’ll savor freshly baked bread, fried falafel, sweet halva, and salty olives, all accompanied by tea or cardamom-infused coffee.

The smell of the sea

After four days of gentle climbs and descents, the terrain beneath our gravel bikes becomes increasingly sandy. We’re approaching Jordan’s desert plain. Our final destination is Aqaba, the country’s sole gateway to the sea, but before reaching it, we pass through the desert of Little Petra, offering us an imperial glimpse of the far more famous Petra, which we won’t visit this time as it would require a full day dedicated to its wonders.

Cycling on sand is demanding, but the effort is richly rewarded by the stunning landscapes of Wadi Rum, a desert known for its canyons and towering rock formations, where the legend of Lawrence of Arabia was born. Here, the challenge intensifies: riding on sand is grueling, especially with over 600 kilometers behind us and tires not quite wide enough to glide over the shifting surface. As we approach the end of our journey, a traditional dinner awaits—chicken slow-cooked in a "natural" oven, buried for over two hours in the ground and covered with hot coals. A glass of wine would be a perfect complement, but we are, after all, in an Islamic region. The following morning, our final pedal strokes will take us to Aqaba, marking the end of our incredible adventure along the Jordan Bike Trail.

Information sheet

The Jordan Bike Trail website provides a detailed itinerary split into 12 daily stages, with an average distance of around 60 kilometers and an elevation gain of 1,600 meters per stage. This route is recommended for experienced and well-trained cyclists.

Here are a few practical tips.

The best time to travel is from May to September, and it’s advisable to book accommodation in advance. Many recommend tackling this trail on an MTB, but we opted for gravel bikes. We suggest wide tires (40mm or more) and, if possible, a suspension fork to make the ride more comfortable. Don’t forget the standard repair tools, and especially something to clean your chain and gears. Most importantly, ensure you have a sufficient supply of food and water.

Training: Be prepared for long days on the bike. For clothing, we relied on Santini’s gravel collection—comfortable high-performing gear that served us well throughout the journey, from the cooler north (with a few unexpected rain showers) to the scorching heat of Wadi Rum in the south.

With proper planning, the Jordan Bike Trail offers an unforgettable cycling adventure, so be sure to bring a good camera to capture memories that will last a lifetime.