THE GEORGIAN CAUCASIAN TRAIL
Better than mountains, there are only mountains you have not yet been to, that you have not yet seen.
“The true home of man is not a house, but the road. Life itself is a journey to be walked,” wrote Bruce Chatwin. This quote resonates deeply with those who view travel as more than just exploring new places but as a journey within. Sometimes, you don’t need a physical destination to feel at home; the experience alone can create that sense. This idea inspired Santini’s project in Georgia: a journey crafted to test our technical apparel under extreme conditions and to immerse ourselves in a landscape rich with untold stories — shared through the eyes and words of those who lived it.
Accompanied by a local guide, Francesco Bonato, Anna Campostrini, Matteo Costalunga, and Nicola Rossi embarked on a four-day adventure across the majestic Caucasus Mountains. This expedition not only put our gear to the test in unpredictable weather and challenging terrain but also led us through rugged, remote landscapes where nature reigns supreme. Despite the raw wilderness, the warmth of the people transformed even the wildest places into welcoming refuges.
Our adventure began even before leaving home. Both our outbound and return flights from Milan were cancelled, forcing an unexpected detour through Paris and then Berlin. This twist cost us a day of travel and required us to rework the entire itinerary. But as often happens, the most memorable experiences are born from unforeseen challenges, and this detour shifted our perspective on the journey ahead.
Georgia is a land of contrasts, a meeting point between Europe and Asia that blends diverse cultures, traditions, and breathtaking landscapes. It was the perfect testing ground for our latest innovations. Each garment was designed to withstand extreme conditions, from icy winds to rapid weather changes that are the hallmark of this land. Thanks to advanced fabrics, our apparel provided the comfort and protection needed at every step.
Our journey began in Kutaisi, Georgia’s third-largest city and one of the oldest in the world, over 220 kilometers from Tbilisi, the country’s capital. From the outset, the scenery changed dramatically: flatlands filled with hazelnut groves and open pastures quickly gave way to steep hills and rugged roads. Every meter gained demanded significant effort, with the terrain growing ever more challenging. Yet it’s within these hardships that the beauty of the journey truly reveals itself.
Crossing the Epregri river valley, navigating sharp switchbacks and steep climbs, we encountered untamed wilderness. The roads, often unpaved, were marked by landslides and snow, with human presence few and far between. Here, time seemed to stand still — scattered houses, small villages of just a handful of buildings, and the occasional ruins of old shops lined our path. Yet, despite the isolation, life was everywhere. Even in the smallest villages, we found extraordinary hospitality — people opening their homes, sharing food and drink, regardless of language barriers.
The Caucasus region has a long and complex history, inseparably tied to the mountains. For centuries, the people of these lands found refuge among the inaccessible peaks to escape invaders. The mountains served not only as physical protection but as a spiritual haven, where nature and humanity coexist in delicate balance.
To reach Mestia, the capital of the Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region, we journeyed through a seemingly endless valley. The road stretched over 100 kilometers, with only a few villages along the way — each composed of just a few houses. Here and there, ruins of old shops told stories of lives past, while pristine, wild nature dominated the landscape. The road alternated between paved and dirt paths, growing rougher as we neared the high mountains. It felt as though we were traversing another world, one where time had frozen. Amid animals wandering freely — donkeys, dogs, and even horses — people had learned to share space with nature.
After days immersed in wilderness, arriving in Mestia — with its supermarkets, restaurants, and even a small airport — was a striking contrast. Yet despite the modern touches, the essence of this region remained rooted in human warmth. Encounters often took place in family homes, leaving a lasting impact on each of us. Like the time, on our arrival in Mestia, when an old Russian car parked outside a house caught our attention. The owner, instead of being bothered, welcomed us with a homemade traditional Georgian spirit, “Chacha”, a gesture of hospitality that captured the spirit of the locals.
Despite the growth in tourism, traditions hold firm. Many families here have studied in Tbilisi or abroad but returned, drawn by an unbreakable bond with these mountains. The mountains now hold new value, supporting the prosperity of the town and ensuring a good standard of living for its residents.
The road to Ushguli, one of Europe’s highest permanently inhabited villages and a UNESCO World Heritage site, pushed our abilities further. Dirt roads and treacherous paths, often rendered impassable by landslides and melting snow, tested our resilience. Yet arriving in Ushguli was magical: a place where time seemed frozen, immersed in the silence of the mountains. Ushguli, a community of four villages appearing as one, lies over 2,000 meters above sea level at the foot of Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak.
During the journey, we immersed ourselves not only in unspoiled nature but also in Georgia’s culinary culture. The food here is a captivating blend of Middle Eastern and Asian flavors, reflecting the history and influences of neighboring regions. Among the most celebrated dishes are “khinkali,” dumplings filled with meat, cheese, or broth, reminiscent of Chinese dumplings yet distinctly Georgian. Spiced meat in various dishes bears the flavors of Turkish and Lebanese cuisine.
We enjoyed these dishes at a place known as the “guides’ house,” a small restaurant that felt like home, with a cozy room and an open kitchen where two women tirelessly hand-prepared dumplings. The experience was made even more authentic by the “khachapuri,” a cheese-filled bread popular throughout Georgia. Exploring Georgian cuisine opened a window into the heart of local traditions, where food represents a deep connection to the land and the country’s history.
The road to the Zagari Pass, over 2,600 meters high, was to be the final leg of our journey. However, snow from previous weeks blocked the path, making it impassable. Facing the mountain’s unpredictability served as a reminder of the limits of human endeavor against nature’s power. Turning back was inevitable, but it took nothing away from the experience.
Throughout the journey, what struck us most was the incredible hospitality of the people. Even in the most remote areas, locals were eager to open their homes, share meals, and offer moments of warmth. This contrast between the harshness of mountain life and the warmth of its people made this experience unforgettable.
